Day 16- Siena Austin Guest Posts!
I hope you all enjoy
this, because it is the first (and probably the last) time you’ll get to hear
what actually happened during our
vacation. So after a grueling day in
Firenze, and a train ride that seemed impossibly long after being spoiled by
the fast train from Napoli, we got to Siena just as the sun was getting ready
to set. Not as romantic as it sounds,
because we had no idea where to go, and I didn’t realize that Siena was built
on a series of steep hills. So we got on
a bus that took us from the station closer to where we wanted to be, and
started wandering around. (Lonely Planet
is great for info, but the maps look like a 3rd grader drew
them.) After like 15 minutes of up and
down, we ended up in front of the Duomo, which was totally unexpected, so I
called the guy whose B&B we were staying at (did I mention we didn’t even
have an address for this place?) and he said he would come find us. Ten seconds later, he popped out of an alley
on a Vespa, and showed us the entrance to a series of 6 underground escalators
(ya, that’s right) to take us down to his B&B. He met us at the bottom of the hill (Italian
escalators aren’t big enough for scooters), and took us down a shady alley to
the B&B. We never would have found
it. Ever. Turns out, the place is his mom’s house, and
he just handles the money and booking.
We talked for awhile, got some pizza at a restaurant overlooking the
Duomo, watched the sunset, and called it a night, because the last couple
mornings had been pretty early, and Elise was sick from thinking about
secondhand smoke.
Campo in the morning |
Campo from the tower. The outside is filled with dirt and horses race 3 times around it twice a year for neighborhood pride |
The next day, we got up and had the best Italian breakfast
I’ve ever seen: the guy’s mom had a basket full of assorted baked goods, fresh
berries in this berry syrup, hot chocolate, yogurt with granola, and some warm
something-or-other, while I talked to her about what to do. She’s a saint – if you need a B&B to stay
at in Siena, and don’t mind that she smokes like a chimney, this is the
place. Apart from breakfast, she gave us
this intense Siena guidebook to use for the day, and did our laundry for us.
The Palazzo and tower we climbed |
From the top of the tower |
After breakfast, I talked to a few people to figure out when
we could see them. Dr. Noble, my Italian
professor, is there with her study abroad group (which included one of my
former students who we ended up seeing), and Simone Rotelli, who is from the
area, and lived with me in Vercelli for a few transfers. Dr. Noble highly recommended going up the
tower, so we decided we should probably do that first.
What happened next solidified my allegiance to Siena over
Firenze. After taking the underground
escalator back up to the city center, we walked into Piazza del Campo. It’s pretty awe-inspiring, especially knowing
that they fill it up with a few feet of dirt twice a year and race horses in it.
Standing in the middle of it, looking at all the buildings that look like they
haven’t changed in 500 years, with no tourists to ruin the moment, it was
something special.
After spending a few star-struck minutes standing around, we
decided to do our fourth major climb of the trip, up to the top of Torre del
Mangia in the piazza. It wasn’t as high
as the others, but it’s still a bunch of steps, and since it’s on the top of a
hill and probably three times taller than everything else, you can see miles
and miles of the rolling Tuscan hills. The
pictures probably say more than I can about it.
I wonder if they let people watch the Palio from up there.
Austin doesn't fit in the staircases going up the tower |
Inside of Duomo |
We were thinking about going to a museum or two, but we
decided we were pretty much done with museums for this trip (plus, seeing Davide in the Academy wasn’t a bad way
to cap off the museuming). So we just
wandered around Siena for awhile, looking at shops and stuff and figuring out
all the different streets. We ended up
at the Duomo, and decided that it wasn’t enough like a museum that we could
handle going inside. It was way worth
it. On the outside, it had the same red,
white and green marble as Firenze, but where Firenze kind of copped out of the
inside decorations, Siena went all-out.
There were all kinds of cool scenes sculpted into almost the entire
floor of the cathedral, and the walls and ceiling were pretty decorated, too,
and Elise, of course, wanted a picture of the organ.
After that, we were getting pretty hungry, so we went to
this Osteria that our mother for the day recommended to us. They had all kinds of different meats and
cheeses and potatoes and stuff to eat, and you could choose several items from
all the options to eat, so I just asked the waiter to put together a good plate
for both of us. In retrospect, I should
have gone up and chosen myself, because Elise had to pass like half of her
plate to me. Something about cured fish
just doesn’t do it for her. Anyway, I
thought it was really good.
View of the Duomo from our B&B |
After lunch, we pretty much decided we were done with the
touristy stuff, so we searched around for an internet point, and made our way
to Piazza del Campo to do some people watching and wait to meet Carson (my
ex-student) and Simone. So BYU does a
mock-Palio every semester, where each class gets assigned to a Contrada, which
basically represent the neighborhoods of Siena, that go up against each other
in the horse race. Last semester, my
contrada was the Tartuca (yeah, it’s a turtle, what of it?). Sitting there, I got caught up in the moment
a little, and with a little cajoling from Elise, ran off to buy the flag for
the Tartuca. It’s beautiful: blue and
yellow, with a little turtle in the middle.
And it was only 6 Euro for the small and 8 for the large flag, so of
course, I got the large one (who wouldn’t?), and it even came on a
flagpole. Elise wasn’t too happy about
that part, because she didn’t particularly want to have to carry a three foot
long stick around for the rest of our trip, but a flag isn’t really a flag,
unless it’s on a flagpole, right?
Austin and his HUGE flag that he carried on our Cinque Terre hikes... he looked like a tour guide |
Anyway, after buying the flag, and waiting
for awhile longer, we didn’t see Carson or Simone, but we did see the
missionaries (nobody else can do quite as good of a job as looking awkward and
out of place as missionaries can). So we
went over and said hi, and one of the immediately asked us who we were. It turns out that Simone, instead of coming
to the piazza to meet us, had gone to the church, but couldn’t call us to tell
us, so he sent the missionaries out to stand around and hope that we eventually
saw and talked to them. Anyway, it
worked, and after finding Carson, we got some gelato and headed to the church
for institute, which also happened to be that night. What it ended up being was Simone and I
sitting in one of the rooms talking, while Elise went to institute with all the
BYU study abroad kids. Fun times. Anyway, I had a good time with Simone, and I
think Elise liked institute alright, especially since it was in English. After some tiramisù, we said goodbye to
everyone and went off in search of a grocery store to buy something for
dinner. I knew there must be one nearby,
because every third person walking down the street had a grocery bag, but we
couldn’t find the store anywhere. We
finally ducked in a store to buy some focaccia and asked someone where it
was. That confirmed my suspicions that
the Sienese like to make everything as hard to find as possible, because this
huge grocery store was in an alley, down yet another underground escalator. Anyway, we bought some fruit and chocolate,
and took it back to our room so Elise could rest her feet. I know, we’re probably the most exciting
people you know. Anyway, that was our
time in Siena, and I’ll pass it back to Elise with more on the trip to Pisa and
the Cinque Terre.
Good job Austin:) It sounds like you two have had a pretty amazing adventure thus far. This will be a time you will never forget.
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